Brandon O'Brien

Monday, September 5, 2022 @ 8:43 PM in 2022 Germany and France

Day 12

Today was a pretty unexciting day spent almost entirely on trains or in train stations. We left our Airbnb in Strasbourg around 8:30 this morning after eating more yogurt, granola, bananas and leftover sausages from last night's dinner. Getting our giant suitcase down the stairs wasn't as big of an ordeal as we had feared and we were quickly on the tram toward the train station. We got there a little early but had plenty of time to get to our gate and find where the train car we had our seats was going to be.

We had three of the four seats at a table, only one of which was already occupied. Even though Dakotah is free and will be in our lap, they still give him a seat which is nice. We weren't quick enough to throw a bag down in the third seat and someone took it which made our area a little cramped. People can buy first class passes and sit in any open seat and that's what this guy was doing. Oh well, lesson learned.

We had some hummus and cut up red peppers as a snack, then had our leftover ham and cheese baguette for lunch. We passed through a lot of neat scenery and kinda skirted the alps on the way south. We made it to Aix-en-Provence where we were going to switch trains. The train station was pretty small but they had a little sandwich shop so we picked up some more sandwiches to eat as an early dinner. We knew we probably wouldn't be checked into our Airbnb in Nice until around 7 and didn't want to have to hunt down more food.

The trip from Aix to Nice was beautiful. It started out going through a lot of wine country and then made its way to the coast where we passed by several towns with really neat seaside cliff hugging homes. We made it to Nice on time and walked the short distance to the Airbnb. The key was in a lockbox around the corner but it was easy enough to find.

We took an extremely small elevator up to the 4th floor (not complaining about it at all... an elevator was very welcome after having to walk 3 flights of stairs with all our luggage in Strasbourg). So far the Airbnb seems really nice. There's a very tiny balcony but it'll be nice to sit out there with a glass of wine later in the week.

Our plan for tomorrow is to meet up with our friend Kat, who moved here earlier in the pandemic, after breakfast and then do a wine tasting with her later in the evening.

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Tags: france, nice, strasbourg, europe, trains

Posted from: France

Saturday, September 3, 2022 @ 7:53 PM in 2022 Germany and France

Day 10

We didn't have any real kind of plan today since it was set to rain all day. We still ended up waking up some time around 7 and just kinda sipped coffee until around 9pm. For breakfast we went to a restaurant called Comme à la maison. They had a pretty big variety of choices but we settled on some brioche french toast, a croque madame and an order of rotis (round hash browns) along with a cafe au lait and a cappuccino. All of the food was really good and I'd definitely recommend the rotis.

After breakfast we set out to find some local cheese to have with our wine tonight and some artwork to bring home with us. First we went to the Alsace museum thinking they might have some small prints or postcards that we could take home, but nothing really stood out to us. After that we went to the Strasbourg museum and struck out there as well. When we left the Strasbourg museum we saw a cheese and meat shop and popped in. The area is known for their Munster cheese so we picked up a little wheel. It was a lot stinkier than I had expected and it was smelling up our bag as we were walking around, lol.

We figured we'd go to the tourist office and see if they had a recommendation on somewhere to find artwork but along the way we found a big "Strasculture" festival taking place at the Cathedral. We walked around some of the booths and found one that was using several hundred year old printing blocks to make pressed artwork for people. Perfect! Sam picked out one of the blocks and she got to add the ink, roll the press and stamp the print afterwards. We talked to the guy who was the president of the organization and he said they go around to all the various print shops going out of business and buy their old gear. He hopes they can have a storefront some day but for now they just travel around to various festivals. They also had a walking tour of Strasbourg that showed all of the old printing press locations where you could load an app and see what used to be printed there. If we had another free day here it would have been fun to do.

We still went to the tourist office and asked about any hiking in the area we could do tomorrow. They pointed us on a castle southwest of here that could be accessed by train then bus. We looked it up and that's going to be our plan for tomorrow since the weather should be nicer. While we were in the tourist office it had started raining again so we quickly got back to the Airbnb so we wouldn't ruin our print.

We lounged for a little bit while it rained and then headed out for lunch. We knew we wanted to get some crepes so we went by one place that had them on the menu but the restaurant was full. Not wanting to deal with that (and the really high prices), we went around the corner and found a takeaway crepe place and got some to go. I got a ham and cheese crepe and Sam got one with Nutella and bananas. Both were tasty and we ate them in a park near Palais Rohan.

We walked around a little more and ended up ducking into a grocery store to get some more yogurt for breakfast and something to make for dinner tomorrow night. We also picked up some grapes, red currants, hummas and red peppers to snack on. After that we swung by a boulangerie and bought a baguette to have with our stinky cheese and wine later. After all those errands we came back to the Airbnb where Sam took a nap and I got some work done.

Around 4pm we opened the wine and busted out the stinky cheese and baguette. The cheese, while a little smelly, tasted really good and went well with the wine and bread. The wine is a local Riesling but actually tasted a little more like a cider. It wasn't really like any Riesling I remember having in the past.

After our little cheese, bread and wine session we went out to find a light dinner at a local brasserie. We had walked by Le Troquet des Kneckes last night and it looked pretty packed so we figured it would be a good place to go. We stopped in and grabbed a seat inside and ordered a beer and some fish and chips (not really local, but we didn't want more bread and cheese so a lot of the local fare was out of the running). Our waitress was actually from Wisconsin but it sounded like she'd been in France for a long time since she was apologizing for not remembering some English words, haha. Once we finished that up we did some more aimless walking around and got some ice cream before heading back to the Airbnb.

Teaser photos:

Using old printing blocks for some artwork

Crepes for lunch

Some tight alleys

Sam chasing a pigeon

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Tags: france, strasbourg, europe

Posted from: France

Friday, September 2, 2022 @ 7:24 PM in 2022 Germany and France

Day 9

There was a lot of activity on the streets outside our Airbnb last night. It seemed like drunk people were walking by screaming and shouting until almost 5 in the morning. Tonight we're going to try shutting the windows to help keep the noise down. We were both up by about 7am, had some coffee and ate breakfast over the next hour and a half. I was looking at the train schedule to Freiburg and saw that the train we wanted (departing Strasbourg at 9:58am) had some issues so we tried to get to the station for the 9:20 train. Unfortunately we missed the tram and wouldn't get to the station in time so we meandered through town to the station and hung out for a little while until the 10:20 train.

Because of the different train we took, we had about an hour to kill at our connection in Offenburg, Germany. We walked into town and got some food to hold us over so we wouldn't be starving when we got into Freiburg. I got essentially a sauceless pizza and Sam got the same toppings on a pretzel. Both were good and did their job of filling us up. While we were eating, Dakotah had a poop explosion and got his onesie covered. We ended up having to change him and wipe him down in a park behind a big church. We also realized we were almost completely out of wipes so we'd need to pick up some more in Freiburg.

We got back to the train station and hopped on our 11:26am high speed train to Freiburg. The trip only took a half hour and was pretty uneventful. Our regional train pass was working well since we could hop on an off whichever trains we wanted to in the area without having to buy new tickets. When we arrived in Freiburg we ran into a DM store and picked up a new packet of diaper wipes.

Walking into town we saw an archeological museum that had a bunch of grape vines in front of them. Some of the grapes were ripe and we tried a few which were really good. We're assuming the grapes they had out there were the ones that grow really well in the area. From there, we made our way over to the Schlossburg area where we were going to hike up to the Schlossburgturn (the big tower). The walk through town brought us through a bunch of markets and really cool cobbled streets that still have some old sewage and water canals in them (no sewage now, haha). We also passed by the Martinstor which was a 13th century gate in the wall around town. Now there's a McDonalds underneath it, lol.

The hike up to the tower was pretty steep but it was mostly paved and pretty well marked. There were a bunch of various trails that all weaved through each other but most ultimately made it to the tower. The tower is 153 steps up to a big lookout with some amazing views of the area. I went up there while Sam stayed on the ground. It was probably a good choice on her part since the tower was slightly swaying in the wind at the top.

After hiking back into town, we went to the Feierling biergarten and had some of their Inselhopf (an unfiltered wheat beer that was very easy to drink) and some sausages with kraut, mustard and some slices of bread. It was nice hanging out in the beer garden, even if there were a decent amount of flies and our waitress wasn't very attentive. It took quite a while to flag her down and get the bill.

From the beer garden we walked over to the Freiburger Munster (the main cathedral in town) where we snapped some pics and then started walking back to the train station. Along the way we saw a bunch of people with boba tea so we hunted the shop down and got some too. We got one with taro and coconut and it was a good thirst quencher. We both realized how little water we'd had to drink today so having something to drink other than beer was extremely welcomed.

The train rides back to Strasbourg were uneventful. We just retraced our route here by getting the high speed train to Offenburg and then a regional train to Strasbourg. We got back into Strasbourg around 5pm and were pretty hungry already. We walked around a little while hoping to see somewhere that jumped out to us but ultimately decided on more Asian by going to a place called East Canteen. I got a Japanese pancake and Sam got some Pad Thai. The pancake was really filling and Sam's pad thai was really flavorful.

On the walk back to the hotel we saw one restaurant that I bookmarked as a potential location to eat tomorrow. It was also next to a cheese and meat shop so we'll probably get some meat, cheese and a baguette and snack on that with our wine that we still need to try. Tomorrow is calling for thunderstorms all day so we're going to take it easy and play it by ear. We're hoping to find some souvenirs in town so tomorrow might be a great day to do that.

Teaser photos:

Martinstor

Near the Gewerbekanal

Schlossbergturm

View from Schlossbergturm

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Tags: france, germany, freiburg, strasbourg, europe

Posted from: France

Wednesday, August 31, 2022 @ 8:39 PM in 2022 Germany and France

Day 7

The rain last night really helped cool the Airbnb down at night. We woke up a few times to feed Dakotah but otherwise had a pretty decent night sleep. Once we had some coffee at our room, we set off to find some breakfast. I found a patisserie around the corner so we headed over there. I had an eclair with a coffee cream filling and Sam had a quiche. Both were good but I think the quiche was the better choice (more fill and not just straight sugar). We ate under a tree on some benches and then set off to see some of the sights around town.

First on the list was La Petite France. This is the area with the most old half-timbered buildings, small canals and winding narrow roads. The buildings were really interesting and the way all of them are crooked and the streets are really winding make the area fun to get lost in. We aimlessly walked around and then made it to one of the bridges at the end of the island where they had some ramparts and a big covered bridge. We walked along the river around the city until we made it to the north side of the old town and then cut down to Place Kléber where there was a clothing market going on.

From there, we cut over to the east side of the old town, up toward the opera and through a big farmers market at Place Broglie. By now it was around 11:30 and we were getting tired of walking around so we went down to Au Brasseur, a local brewery and restaurant, to eat. They opened at 11 and we were almost the first ones there (people don't eat early here). Sam and I shared a brown ale, salad and tarte flambee (the Alsace version of pizza).

We came back to the Airbnb so Sam could take a nap and we could get off our feet for a little while. I took the opportunity to go run and get groceries for dinner. I got a bunch of veggies and a premade couscous salad to mix together, then went to a boulangerie to pick up a baguette, then a wine shop to get a bottle of local wine, a beer store we saw earlier to get some Cantillon (extremely rare to find in the states but was super cheap, relatively, here) and a Trappist beer.

The last stop on the journey was to a cheese shop to get some cheese to go with the bread. I didn't know what any of the cheeses were and the woman working there didn't speak English so I just picked a random cheese. Turns out it was a pretty mild goat cheese (not bad, but still has the goat milk flavor). The cheese shop was tucked away in a really cool alley with a bunch of other wine shops and bakeries. There were a couple restaurants that might be fun to go back to and sit and eat outside.

Back at the Airbnb I did a little work while Sam napped and then got a little nap myself. Unfortunately the windows in our Airbnb face south and it was getting really hot in here so napping wasn't the easiest. After a while the sun shifted and we could open the blackout curtains which helped get it to cool down more. I opened the wine and we had our cheese and bread with a little olive oil mix I made with salt, pepper and herbs d' provance.

I chopped the veggies I bought (mushrooms, carrot, zucchini, and red bell pepper) and sauteed those with the same spices as the dipping oil. When they were done I added the premade couscous salad and mixed it all together. It was a pretty good dinner and one filled with veggies (which we've been sorely lacking the last few days).

After our food settled and it cooled down some more we went out and got some gelato from the shop just outside our Airbnb. Sam got a scoop with caramel gelato and I got a scoop of chocolate chip. We ate them and walked back near the Cathedral then looped back over to La Petite France via the paths along the river surrounding the city. It was a great temperature outside and we enjoyed the walk.

Back at the Airbnb we've just been trying to wind Dakotah down for bed and I started some laundry. We're planning on going to Colmar tomorrow to see a different city with similar old half-timbered buildings. Trains run down there every 30 minutes and it only takes about 30 minutes, so we're not really in a rush to get moving. I bought some yogurt, granola and bananas so we can have breakfast here without needing to eat something out.

Teaser photos:

La Petite France in the morning

Dakotah by a fountain

Gelato for dessert

La Petite France in the evening

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Tags: france, strasbourg, half timber

Posted from: France